Yuletime Rancho Winslow 2015

Jeff "Saxman" Barnes (note festive HoHoHo tie!), as Il Medico della Peste

Once again, Xmas and Santy Claus made an appearance last December, and true to form, I was among those to celebrate at the festivities at Rancho Winslow. There was some early controversy when presents were opened. Jeffrey Barnes, brilliant sax man master of most musical instruments, had been given a Venetian Carnival mask (pictured), and apparently Santa Clause forgot to include the story behind the mask.


We got it narrowed down to a choice between two, from among the classic Venetian Commedia dell’arte masks. I leaned strongly towards the mask of Il Medico della Peste, the doctor of the Plague. The long nose allowed the doctor to stuff the mask’s proboscis full of dried flowers, spices, herbs, and camphor, so that the herbs would purify the air that had been tainted by the victims of the plague, thereby preventing the doctor from falling ill. The theory of the time was that the plague was caused by vapors and “bad air”, the miasmatic approach. This was pre-germ theory, and nobody knew about the fleas and the rats yet. Ironically, the heavy, ankle length robes work by the doctors were instrumental in keeping the plague-infected fleas from biting the doctors. The other school of thought, Jeff included, decided the mask was of Pantalone de’Bisognosi, also known as Il Magnifico, or Babilonio. Sure, Il Magnifico sounds great, but he is a quite wealthy, elderly merchant who is obsessed with greed. All he cares about is money. The mask did have the hook nose, but lacked the telltale protruding fuzzy eyebrows and the pointed goatee, and Jeff was definitely not wearing the merchant’s classic knee length red socks (pantaloni). I’m sticking with Il Medico, and the other folks are just plain wrong.








The crew was composed of Chris and Diane (The Martha of Manchaca), Grover and Jill, and their pal Jack the Jeweler (who was on his way to the Coast), Joolz, Robert “Empty Leg” Abraham, me, Jeffrey and his better half Gina, Granma Aveline and Granma Nancy, Sarah and The Kevin (and their nervous pup Piper), Havi and her rugrats Vi, Connor and Scarlet, Raheem, Marie, and brother Nabil.


We had quite a lineup of beverages, including Real Ale Hans Pils and Angel’s Envy Bourbon (both highly recommended, by the way),as well as a slew of wines, including Honoro Vera Garnacha 2014 (okay after it gets a breath), Borsao Red Campo de Borja 2014 (my inexpensive go-to red for all occasions), Castillo De Clavijo Rioja Crianza 2010 (nice), Borsao Tres Picos Campo de Borja, 2012 (excellent, and a fave of the group), Ramon Bilbao Rioja Crianza 2012 (another keeper), and a very pleasant Cottesbrook Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2014. Havie brought (I think?) a Sledgehammer Cab Sauv 2013 and an Ancient Roots Dark Red 2013, both of which were tasty. Robert, crafty devil that he is, gave gift bottles of Champagne, knowing full well we would hang onto them for New Year’s Eve. There was PLENTY of wine.









For pre-dinner nosh there was a tray of crudité with a couple of delish dips: tzatziki and creamy avocado. Normally I’m repelled by raw green bell peppers, but these were from the garden, and sweet as candy. There was also a fresh fruit platter with ripe strawberries and blackberries, big fat, juicy grapes, and sweet aromatic apple and pineapple. There was also an assortment of cheeses and whole grain crackers. Plenty of noshes for a herd waiting on the big feed bag.





Hangar Steak, Sausage, Chicken




Ribs




Dr. Pepper BBQ sauce with chipotle and gochujang



This meal was based on tender and smoky barbecue, and featured excellent brisket (actually, hangar steak) and sausage from Chris, and wonderful ribs and chicken from Grover. All, melt-in-your-mouth stuff. I made a very zippy Dr. Pepper barbecue sauce to go with, which featured mora chipotle powder and Korean gochujang fermented chile sauce. Thankfully the heat mellowed out a little before service.  Di had a big pot of luscious lima beans, cooked with carrots, celery, onion, garlic, and savory, the wonder herb for beans. She also had roasted a pile of sweet, tender Brussels sprouts glazed with orange balsamic vinegar, and made a batch of crispy cole slaw with a honey-ginger-lime dressing.





Di's Lima beans




Roasted Brussels





Wilted baby greens with garlic





Slaw with mint


I whipped up a pile of barely-wilted baby wonder greens (kale, collards, spinach, and chard) with olive oil, garlic, and a touch of chicken stock. I was forbidden from using bacon, due to some persnickety dietary demands from members of the group (who I could have sworn had no problem sucking down pork ribs with abandon). Havi brought a couple of pans of her famous baked white yams and sweet potatoes in coconut milk, which is always a hit. Granma Nancy oversaw production of her Pink Stuff, the rose-colored marshmallow and fruit concoction that’s a requisite offering every Christmas. I marinated some sweet onion slices to go with the fantastic pickles from Grover and Jill’s butcher shop. And Di had made zucchini bread and whole wheat rolls that just really balanced the meal nicely.





Yams and sweet taters with coconut milk





Pink stuff





Marinated sweet onions





The pickles



Raheem’s mom, Marie, brought some desserts. There were yummy coconut macaroons with a dark chocolate ganache drizzle, along with some tasty pumpkin pies and whipped cream. She made an excellent Portuguese Rice Pudding, and there was another cakelike dessert she made which was covered with chocolate that I have no idea about, since I never tasted it. It looked delectable, I was just too full.





Macaroons






Rice pudding, Pies, and Assorted noshes in background





The mystery cake


I managed to keep up with Robert on the number of plates consumed, everybody loved their gifts, the libations flowed freely, the dogs, horses, and cats all got along just fine, the rain held off and the fire in the patio chiminea didn’t go out, the new dishwasher worked flawlessly, and most importantly, everyone raved, and I do mean raved, about their food. It was a very raveable feast, enjoyed by a tight group of pals. Martha of Manchaca once more proved her superior entertaining skills. We are not worthy.

Mick "Full as a Tick" Vann ©


 

Martians and Peace!

Several months back, R and I decided it was high time we met up for a movie and grub fest. Yeah, I am way behind in my blog entries, as I’ve been writing an ebook: MIXED MEX: OLDMEX, TEXMEX, NEWMEX. Favorite Dishes from Regional Mexico, Texas and the Border, and New Mexico. You’re gonna love it. The movie selected was The Martians, which we both enjoyed immensely. Spoiler alert: it was regrettable that Matt Damon had to die so miserably in the end, at the hands of those repulsive and vindictive aliens on that angry red planet, but Martians are known for their short tempers and fast trigger fingers. And just for the record, although it has effective comic relief, I wouldn’t classify it as a comedy, like the studio did for the Golden Globes. Since we were both heading north from the theater and we had a hankering for Middle Eastern food, we settled on Peace Deli, the Palestinian bakery and cafeteria-style deli on the southwest corner of Braker and North Lamar.

The way it works at Peace is you grab a tray, scan the big menu plastered on the wall, grab a drink and eating utensils, and start cruising down the gleaming cafeteria rails, paying at the end of the line. Most of the sides are in hotel pans displayed before you, hot and cold, and the entrees are cooked-to-order. Entrées don’t take long to prepare, and the crew calls out your name for pick up at the end of the counter when they are ready. The beauty is that you can start eating the minute you sit down, while your entrée lags behind five minutes or so. A great system, by my book. There is a big basket of warm pita on the line, and you help yourself to the fresh flatbreads.



L to R: Hummus, Beetroot Salad, Eggplant Salad, Mint Cabbage Salad

Falafel




Fried cauliflower with tzatziki



I went with a mixture of items, so that I could try several dishes. The cabbage salad with mint is a nice, subtly spiced Palestinian style slaw. If you’ve never had slaw with mint and Middle Eastern spices, you should. The savory beetroot salad is an absolute must, as is the garlicky hummus topped with chile-infused olive oil. Their warm eggplant salad is outstanding. Think of it as a rich, Middle Eastern-spiced ratatouille. That juice on the bottom is a real plate licker. We split a side of falafel, just because I had never tried their falafel before. It is excellent (and I’m not that big a fan of falafel). The fried cauliflower with garlic tzatziki was better the first time I had it, simply because it was right out of the fryer, while this visit it had been sitting a short while and was only lukewarm. The star on my side of the table was the minced beef kabob, which they cook to perfection. It has a rich, beefy flavor and every bite is juicy. For some reason, Middle Eastern kabob cooks have a tendency to overcook kebabs. Not here.





Minced beef kebab





Cheese flatbread


I ordered a cheese flatbread, which looks pizza-like, but tastes more like a flatter, more rolled-out version of the pita with some mild, non-descript cheese melted on top. Rather than a manakeesh za’atar-like herb bread or lavash with cheese, it tasted more like it was meant to quell the din of obnoxious, hungry children. Live and learn.






L to R: Babaghanoush, Beetroot salad, Chickpea salad


R opted for the beetroot salad, the chickpea salad, and their excellent babaghanoush. The chickpea salad was okay, but it didn’t really excite me. The flavors weren’t as dynamic as the other dishes. Their babaghanoush is superb. The flavors are complex, yet no single element dominates. For her entrée she went with the chicken kebab. Normally I avoid chicken kebabs like the plague in a Middle Eastern restaurant, because they are usually overcooked, chewy, and dense. Not here. The cubed meat was yogurt marinated, juicy, and tender. Fantastic.
 




Chicken kebab


I’ve said it before, and still haven’t done it yet, but the next time I go to Peace, I will get the whole chicken. It looks very tempting and juicy. And as always, the desert counter is loaded with all kinds of Middle Eastern sweets and baked goods. Peace Deli and Bakery…..I’ve never been disappointed.

http://peacebakerytx.com/

Mick Vann ©  

  

Dishwasher's Revenge! Turkey Day at Rancho Winslow 2015

The Dishwasher Did NOT Abide!

This recent Thanksgiving I was fortunate enough to have been invited as a guest and prep cook for the annual Rancho Winslow Turkey Day feast. Diane had concocted an adventurous menu, and truth be told, most of the hardest work was done by the time I got there. Joolz was onboard and had been helping Di. The hardest part of my task was getting up way too early on a day off, in order to get to the HEB in Kyle right when they opened at 6am. As the appointed chef du gravy, I had to be certain I could get turkey parts for the gravy, and I had stupidly decided to do that on Thanksgiving morning. It was a pretty serious crowd for 6am on a holiday. Big bags under focused but bleary eyes, with tightly clutched shopping lists and absolutely no sense of humor. These were determined folks on a mission, and there were surprisingly more of them than I had thought there would have been. As I had hoped, HEB still had turkey wings and necks on hand, so I loaded up on those, along with the appropriate veggies for stock (celery, carrots, onion, and garlic), and made my getaway. 






Perky Turkey!


I had done my wine shopping the day before, using the online feature at Total Wine. It’s a godsend. Select everything online, pay for it then, and when you go to pick it up, you go to the customer service counter right inside the front door, give them your name, and they present you with a box of what you selected. No roaming endlessly up and down aisles, trying to read small print with antique eyes. It’s much easier to read ratings and descriptions on my computer screen, while sitting on my ass. Plus, you can also easily get there via the back way, from Westgate, and avoid the horrible traffic on Brodie Lane. 

Here’s what I selected, all of which received great reviews online, was all quite reasonably priced (in the neighborhood of $10 a bottle), and garnered hip hurrahs from the tipplers at Rancho Winslow.
Yalumba “Y” Viognier, 2014
Borsao  Campo de Borja 2014 (my cheap red of choice, a steal at $6 a bottle)
Klinker Brick Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel, 2012
Gascón Malbec, 2014

Mascota Vineyards La Mascota Cabernet Sauvignon, 2013

Anna Codorníu Brut Rose Cava
Poema Brut Cava

I also grabbed CBoy a six pack of Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale to amend his copious assortment of beers on ice. 

Our pal Robert “Empty Leg” Abraham brought a 2014 Meridian Chardonnay, which is his go-to white. Rob feels like Chardonnay has gotten the stinky end of the stick lately, passed over by the Sauv Blanc and Pinot Grigio crowd, so he feels obligated to represent. Havie and Raheem brought a 2013 No Curfew red, a 2013 Legend of the Vine Cabernet, and a 2014 Carson Ridge Paso Robles Cab. All of the wine was enjoyed by all. Not a stinker in the bunch. There was a crew of 16 in attendance, anchored by C’Bpy and Princess Di, along with me, Joolz (AKA, the Master Baster), Robert (retired veterinarian and forensic turkey vivisectionist), Havie and her posse (spawn Violet, Conner, and Scarlet, along with Raheem, Nabil, Jamaal, Marie, and Lauren), and the walking wounded, Grover and Jill. You may remember G and J from previous posts. They live across the back fence from Rancho Winslow, and own Austin’s best little butcher shop, Johnny G’s Butcher Block. The medical mention referred to the fact that Grover had his left arm in an elaborate sling contraption encircling his whole body, to prevent him from moving his arm for the next three months. Somehow he managed to tear his bicep muscle from his chest wall while reaching for something on the floor, all while sitting in a chair! Jill was hobbled by a foot cast that rose to just below her knee. The poor dear managed to break her ankle while putting on a shoe. It’s sad when our elderly begin to crumble before our very eyes, especially during deer processing season (a critical and harrowing time for butchers).

I have to say, Di outdid herself this year, and every single thing I tasted (and I tasted it all), was mind-numbingly delicious. For noshes, there was a tray of vegetable crudité, accompanied by chipotle raspberry dip, smoked Gouda dip, and spinach-artichoke dip. The crunchy red bell peppers from the nursery’s garden were as sweet as candy. Lauren brought two wonderful trays of composed fruit salad. The guest of honor at this groaning board was an 18 pound female turkey with herbs and lemon inserted under the skin, and a cavity stuffed with carrots, celery, onion, garlic, and herbs. Her breast adornments were not only fetching, but quite perky! The resulting meat was meltingly tender and very moist.  She was accompanied by a glazed ham, served with horseradish sauce. 

Princess Di and Perky Turkey

Cooked Perky





The Death Spiral of Ham!



I took a big pot full of turkey necks and wings, flavored with carrot, celery, onion, garlic, and herbs, and reduced it down for hours. I was going to thicken it with some roux made from duck fat and flour, but Havie and Raheem sounded the gluten panic alarm, so I was forced to use a slurry of cornstarch instead. Still, it was excellent gravy, even without the duck fat roux. That same reduced turkey broth moistened the dressing, made with bread cubes, celery, carrot, onion, garlic, sage, and mushrooms. We could have used another pan, or even two. I could have eaten another whole pan all by myself. It was that good. Di made her mom Nancy’s fresh cranberry relish with orange zest, and we also had the ubiquitous cranberry jelly which slowly and noisily slurps out of the can.

  

Gravy

Dressing







Relish World

 

Havie brought a casserole of Japanese sweet potatoes and yams with coconut milk, which was a huge hit. Di marinated some Brussels sprouts in olive oil and orange Balsamic vinaigrette and roasted those. She also did fresh-blanched green beans tossed with butter and roasted red onion sections, garnished with blue cheese. There was cinnamon and cardamom infused apple sauce, and a lovely spinach and pear salad with purple onions, toasted walnuts, and a cranberry-ginger vinaigrette. We had Sister Schubert’s yummy whole grain yeast rolls hot from the oven slathered with whipped butter. There was strong brewed iced tea and an urn of lemonade, and the aforementioned shitloads of good wine and beer. We’re talking seriously good food here, folks.

Spinach Salad

Brussels Sprouts






Japanese Sweet Potatoes

Green Beans with Roasted Onions and Blue Cheese







 


The crew all waddled in later for pies which were baked by Marie (with Havie’s help?). Scrumptious pumpkin, apple, pecan, and lemon meringue. Nabil cranked out a big bowl of fresh whipped cream for the punkin pies. I was in pie heaven. As if that wasn’t enough, Nancy had sent over a pan of smores bars, which folks couldn’t stop eating. 

We all went into food comas and watched UT get the snot beat out of them by Texas Tech, while Lauren and Jamaal gracefully rode herd on the dirties, loading up the dishwasher and hand-washing the bigger pots and pans. Unfortunately, the dishwasher decided to commit suicide in protest, forcing C’Boy and Di to get up at the buttcrack of dawn the next day, to go off in search of a new dishwasher amongst the frenzied herds of ravaging Black Friday shoppers.
 

I wish I could provide a happy ending, but the next day, the brand new dishwasher’s water pump didn’t work, which caused the dirty dishes to get enameled with baked-on food particles. Joolz didn’t know that the under sink plumbing was discombobulated from C’Boy trying to figure out why the water didn’t come on in the new dishwasher, so she dumped the residue from the turkey stock bones into the sink, which immediately ran through and coated the bottom shelf under the sink, before running out all over the kitchen floor. And, with the kitchen sink water and drain disconnected, Joolz, Di, and C’Boy ended up having to hand wash all of the food-enameled dishes by hand, using the little bar sink on the kitchen island. A Herculean task that lasted hours. Hopefully the new dishwasher has been installed by now; they were hoping it would be finished by Tuesday (today).


Post-dinner Sisyphean maladies aside, it was a spectacular feast, held among dear friends. There were no divisive political arguments, and nobody got too drunk or made as ass out of themselves. There was plenty of food (except for the dressing, dagnabbit) and every single nibble was delicious. We are all truly
blessed. 








No glue guns died in the course of this post.....



Mick Vann ©    

Sap's (Not so) Sweet and Sour 9.08.2015

I had to do some banking last week, which almost always means a stop by Sap’s Fine Thai Cuisine on Westgate, since my credit union is cater-corner from Sap’s, in the shopping center from hell, right across Ben White Boulevard to the northeast. While perusing the menu I was waiting for gustatory inspiration, and it came from the vegetables that accompany the sweet and sour dish (S-P28): green beans, onions, garlic, tomatoes, eggplant, crunchy cloud ear fungus, and fresh chunks of pineapple. I ordered the dish with ground pork, which matches well with the sauce, but I also love it with shrimp and squid. 

Most Americans immediately associate the term “sweet and sour” with that gloopy, overly sweet stalwart that coats chunks of battered and deep fried chicken or pork in the typical Americanized-Chinese restaurant. The neon-orange sauce that’s adorned with water chestnuts, vapid canned baby corn, and onion, and tastes more like ketchup than anything else. Although the Thai version originated in China, it tastes nothing at all like the American-Chinese version (nor does the original Chinese version for that matter).



Sap's Sweet and Sour with Ground Pork




The taste profile of the Thai (and the original Chinese) version is savory, with a hint of sweetness from the pineapple, balanced nicely with vinegar. Umami arrives courtesy of the fish sauce in the Thai version, and soy sauce in the Chinese version. And rather than coating greasy, battered chunks of meat, the Thai version is a quick stir fry of whatever protein you’ve chosen, matched with the still crunchy vegetables and that complex sauce. If you glaze over looking at a large menu, the dish is a culinary revelation and easy to find; just ask for S-P28. It is even more delicious when consumed with the rich, nutty flavor of Sap’s brown jasmine rice.


The ideal tabletop match would be a platter of pad sea-ew noodles (S-F3; AKA phat si-io, phat see yiew, pad see ewe, pad si ewe, pad see-iw, etc.).  You need to think ahead on this one, because you have to choose not only the protein, but the type of noodle. I went with chicken and sen yai, or wide, flat rice noodles (sen yai means “big strip” in Thai). Like the previous dish, pad sea-ew originated in China, but was morphed by Thai cooks to create a uniquely Thai flavor profile. The name of the dish translates to “fried with soy sauce” (referring to stir frying in a wok and not deep frying).  The soy sauce referred to is not Kikkoman, but a thick, slightly sweetened, sauce called Sea-Ew Dum in Thai (or Kecap Manis in Malaysia).  The dish is popular as a street food dish, and is common on restaurant menus. Think of it as a “dry” (meaning broth-less), version of lard nah (AKA rad nah), a dish with the same ingredients, but accompanied with a thickened, rich stock that’s seasoned with ground white pepper.



Pad Sea Ew with Chicken (with sen yai noodles)



The key to a good pad sea-ew is cooking the noodles in a very hot wok, so that they get slightly charred; often referred to as “the dragon’s kiss”.  It’s a tricky process, since the noodles would love to stick to the surface of the wok. The typical protein is pork, chicken, or shrimp, mixed with some fluffy scrambled egg, and the only vegetable is Chinese broccoli, which is thinner and slightly more bitter in flavor (some even accuse it of having a slight metallic taste). The sauce is composed of a mixture of thick soy sauce, light soy sauce, a touch of sugar and vinegar, and lots of garlic. Some vendors and cooks will add a little oyster sauce as well. When it gets to the table, I add a little fish sauce and lots of Thai roasted chile paste to adjust the flavor to my desired taste settings. It’s a fantastic noodle stir fry that never fails to impress.

Sap’s Fine Thai Cuisine is my favorite Thai restaurant in town. They have the most authentic flavors, and very reasonable rates with big portions. I highly recommend the sweet and sour dish. It’s a different flavor from what you probably expect. Over the years I’ve eaten every single item on the entire menu, and each dish at each visit has been excellent. Sap’s is my go-to dining spot, and that’s with all cuisines and all of Austin’s restaurants considered. Very highly recommended.

Sap’s Fine Thai Cuisine
· 4514 West Gate Blvd, (512) 899-8525
· 5800 Burnet Rd, (512) 419-7244
http://sapsthai.com/

mick vann ©

Sap's on Burnet...A Walk on the Mild Side of Thai

Thai yellow or golden chiles (photo from eBay)


On Sunday, April the 12^th, R and I went by Sap’s on Burnet Road. I needed to drop off some Thai chile seedlings I was growing for him: yellow-fruited, and orange-fruited. I had found the seeds from a rare seed dealer and couldn't resist ordering some, figuring that if I spread the plants around, folks could harvest dried seeds from mature fruit, and we’d all have plenty of seeds for the foreseeable future. The orange gets a little larger than the yellow, and both of them are excellent in Thai cooking, and are especially delectable when made into Thai sriracha sauce (vastly superior to that crass, unrefined Rooster brand crap). Aside from the seed delivery, I had a hankering to stuff myself on some authentic Thai food, and Sap’s is my favorite spot for that.

Thai orange chiles (photo from etsy)

R is a bit of a wuss when it comes to eating really hot food, so when we dine together, I tend to moderate my chile intake somewhat, spicing my plate to taste. She knew she wanted “that green bean dish”, which could have been the green bean salad I love so much, but more likely, S-P31, Amazing Green Beans, which I like to get with ground pork. It is essentially a hybrid Thai-Chinese stir fry, with garlic and shallot, chunky pieces of jalapeño chile, crunchy green beans (or long beans in Thailand), and a protein of choice. The sauce gets some chicken stock and fish sauce, and is anchored by fermented bean paste, which gives it an umami boost. The mixture gets some Thai basil right towards the end to add some herbal punch. It’s one of my favorite dishes at Sap’s.





Amazing green beans with ground pork

The main attraction of the meal was S-P50, or Sap’s Special Massaman Curry with Beef. Depending on who you believe, massaman (or mussaman) curry originated in the 1600s in the court of Ayutthaya, with the original curry developing from a Thai adaptation of a dish introduced by Persian merchant Sheik Ahmad Qomi. Another theory has the dish being introduced into Southern Thailand from Malaysia, by way of India, and that its name derives from the Malay word masam, which means “sour” (although the dish in its present manifestation is not a sour curry by any stretch of the imagination). There is little doubt that the dish was Muslim in origin, and the ingredients that form the curry paste are not typical Thai curry spices, including cardamom, cinnamon, clove, star anise, cumin, bay, nutmeg, and mace. These combinations of flavors were brought to the Malay Peninsula by Muslim traders from the Middle East, India, and the Indonesian archipelago. Later on, Dutch, Portuguese, and French East Indian traders imported the spices. As it slipped across the southern Thai-Malaysian border heading north, the Thais combined that spice profile with dried chile peppers, white peppercorns, coriander, lemongrass, galangal, shallot, garlic, shrimp paste, and sometimes turmeric to develop the flavors of the curry paste. This paste gets fried with the separated oil from coconut cream until fragrant, and then the meat is added. Thais typically cook the dish with beef, since pork is forbidden (haram) for Muslims. It can also be made with chicken, duck, mutton, or goat. Once the meat has braised with the paste to develop flavor, potatoes, onions, fish sauce, tamarind, palm sugar, coconut milk, and peanuts (or cashews) are added. It is a dish eaten with rice or with roti (a crepe-like South Asian flatbread made from wheat flour), and a bowl of massaman tastes best eaten the next day, once the potatoes have absorbed the flavors of the curry.




Sap's Special Massaman with beef

Sap's Special Massaman Curry is made with slowly braised chuck steak that's so tender that it melts in your mouth (I cut mine with my spoon), and instead of using white potatoes, he substitutes Yukon Gold potatoes. The overall flavor is sweet and tangy, with many complex layers of spice and an assertively piquant background, and whole roasted peanuts providing a pleasant crunchy texture and nutty taste. Sap's Special massaman has deeper flavor than most of the typical versions, and is flat-out delicious. A highly recommended menu item.





REAL sweet and sour, with shrimp and tofu

When most folks think of sweet and sour sauce, they instantly get a mental image of a psychedelic orange, ketchup-based, gloppy, thick, sauce that’s way more sweet than sour. It’s the classic Americanized Chinese restaurant menu mainstay, and the safe thing to order for your kids, especially if it comes on fried chicken nuggets. True, the dish did originate in China, but as with all Chinese dish imports into Thailand, the Thai version adopts that special Thai culinary finesse, and avoids the pitfalls of Americanization. We ordered S-P28 with shrimp, and added tofu, and it came out aromatic and steaming, with green beans, Asian eggplant, onion, garlic, fresh pineapple, tomato, and cloud ear mushrooms. The sauce has a mildly spicy edge, and is savory and sour, with just a hint of sweetness from palm sugar. This is the sweet and sour stir fry that you always hoped you would get at a Chinese restaurant, but made so much better here, Thai-style.




Stir fried bean sprouts


Another mild dish at Sap’s is one that slips under the menu radar for most non-natives, S-P34. It is simple and light, but packed with flavor from fish sauce, garlic, scallion, barely stir- fried, nutty tasting mung bean sprouts, and whatever protein you selected (we went for chicken). This is a classic homestyle Thai dish, that’s more subtle than the typical Thai flavor profile, but just as delicious. We ordered Thai brown jasmine rice to go with the entrees, and it is so much better tasting (and healthier) than the average polished white jasmine rice. If you’ve never had it, you’re missing out.

Once again, we had a really delicious meal at Sap’s, and one that even R could handle spice-wise. It’s proof that not all Thai dishes are spicy, and you don’t need to fry your taste buds to enjoy a fantastic Thai meal.

Mick Vann ©


for some background on Sriracha sauce, see here:
http://www.austinchronicle.com/food/2014-08-22/cock-of-the-walkhuy-fong-ruling-the-roostsriracha-alternatives-ruffling-feathers/

Naam jiim Siracha: Siracha (Sriracha) sauce is a bottled table condiment originally made in Si Racha, a coastal town just north of Pattaya (down the coast, south of Bangkok). It's a reddish-orange sauce made from pureed and aged-fermented ripe chiles, salt, vinegar, garlic, and sugar, which is used especially with egg and noodle dishes. Thai brands are preferred, since they have the true Thai taste, which balances sweet and sour with the heat (and there are some Thai brands that also offer a mild version if you prefer less heat). "Vietnamese" brands, such as the common Huy Fong (‘Rooster Brand') are spicier, with more garlic, vinegar, and little sugar. Huy Fong, by the way, is made in Los Angeles, from ripe jalapeños and garlic powder. ‘Sriracha Factory Brand', ‘Grand Mountain', 'Shark Brand', and ‘Golden Mountain' (Sriraja Panich) are all good Thai labels of a proper Thai Siracha sauce.



Originally Siracha (Sriracha, Sriraja, Siraja) sauce was made with Thai yellow chiles (prik daeng), which many feel results in a richer, deeper-flavored sauce. ‘Golden Mountain' brand still produces a version made with these yellow chiles (which can range in color from bright yellow to medium orange), although it is hard to find. Impossible to find in the States. You'll recognize the lighter color of the sauce inside the bottle, and if you ever find any on the shelf in your local market, you'd be wise to stock-up. Siracha sauce is used especially for omelets (kai jaew), for general-purpose spiciness with noodles, and grilled and deep-fried items, and, only in the East, with lard na.




A scene from a sauce factory near Chonburi, not too far north of Si Racha. These cases hold oyster sauce. They wouldn't let me take pictures of the sriracha sauce being made.