Yesterday afternoon Sap Apisaksiri of Sap’s Fine Thai Cuisine (on Westgate, and Austin's best Thai restaurant) and I
taught a culinary class together, at Chris and Diane Winslow’s It’s About Thyme
Nursery, the best source in the region for culinary herbs. I lectured on Thai herbs
and culinary culture while Sap joined in, and did a cooking demo of spicy
coconut and chicken soup, tom kha, and a quick stir fry with fresh herb curry
and fish cakes, pad ped pla grai. We talked about a myriad of different aspects
of Thai cuisine, and most of the primary ingredients used in Thai
cooking, and the good sized crowd got to sample a couple of excellent dishes. In
this first entry I’ll cover the soup portion of the handout that they got at the lecture; tomorrow the
second half, the stir fry.
The big four of Thai seasoning, upper left, clockwise: makroot (Thai lime leaf), lemongrass, galangal (rhizome and sliced), Thai chiles
Tom Kha Gai – Spicy Coconut and Galangal Soup with Chicken
Tom
kha gai is
a Thai soup known by most Westerners. It is an example of a more complex soup,
where the base is primarily coconut milk and coconut cream, reinforced with
chicken stock for depth (many Thai soups are fairly basic, unlike the soupy
curries). Usually made with chicken meat, it is seasoned with lime juice, palm
sugar, lemongrass, makroot leaves, galangal (the kha of tom kha),
chiles, fish sauce, and cilantro. You can always distinguish a good tom kha by
the amount of coconut cream and galangal used in the soup; the more of each
used, the more expensive it is to produce, and the better it tastes. There are
some amazingly vapid versions of tom kha produced in the States, where
little coconut milk and no coconut cream is used, and the use of
galangal is an afterthought. The more complex the soup is, the more difficult
it is to balance the seasonings so that they all contribute to the whole, yet
do not overshadow each other. As with all Thai food, the major flavor
components are present: hot, sour, salty, sweet. It should taste creamy, rich,
and spicy, with a faint tart note from the lime, and some base saltiness from
the fish sauce on the finish.
An ocean of 4" galangal plants ready for sale, at It's About Thyme
Galangal:
kha (ข่า)
Alpina galangal (A. nigra)
Galangal is heavily used in Thai cuisine, especially in association with
seafood, as it minimizes ‘fishiness’. It is most known to Westerners through
its use in Tom kha chicken and
coconut cream soup, and it should be an assertive flavor in that dish (tom = soup, kha = galangal). It is sold as a fresh rhizome, or sliced and
frozen. When rhizomes are young they are white to creamy, with pink tips; young
galangal is best used in soups and stews. The flavor is gingery and floral,
with an herbal, peppery finish. As the rhizome matures, it gets a thicker skin,
and the color deepens to a burnished gold or amber, and the flavor gets more
piquant and peppery; older rhizome is best for curries.
Galangal
(Alpina galangal) can be grown here
as a tropical, with a minimum temperature of 34°F or so, technically it is
rated as Zone 9-10, which is a minimum of 20 to 30°F. It wants morning sun and
afternoon shade for best rhizome production, although it will grow in full
shade. It should be planted in a spot with good north wind protection, in rich
soil, and mulched heavily. The plant should be kept lightly moist and wants
good drainage. It likes a balanced food every 2 months or so, and will take a
full 6 to 9 months to produce harvestable rhizomes. Expect the clump to get 4
to 6 feet tall. The
flavor is gingery and floral, with citrus undertones and a peppery finish.
A herd of 4" makroot plants (Thai lime leaf) for sale at IAT.
A steaming bowl of rich, spicy coconut cream soup: Tom Kha Gai
Tom Kha Gai – Spicy Coconut and Galangal
Soup with Chicken serves
4 to 6
- 2 cups chicken stock
- 1 cup mushrooms, sliced ¼” (or canned straw mushroom equivalent)
- 8 Thai lime leaves, bruised to release flavor, torn into pieces
- 6 2-inch pieces of lemongrass, bruised to release flavor
- 2 to 3-inch cube (or equivalent in frozen slices) galangal, sliced thinly
- 4 tablespoons Thai fish sauce (Golden Boy or Tra Chang [“weighing scale”])
- 3 to 4 tablespoons lime juice, to taste
- 2 teaspoon palm sugar, to taste
- 6 oz chicken boneless breast or thigh, sliced thinly
- 2 each 13.5 oz cans Chaokoh coconut milk, shaken
- 10 to 14 small red Thai chiles, crushed (or equivalent in nahm phrik pao
roasted chile paste:Sap's Homemade
[available for sale at restaurant], or Mae Ploy brand [“Chilli in Oil”], or Butterfly Brand)
- Cilantro leaves, to garnish
- Cooked jasmine rice, to serve
Heat the stock, add the mushrooms, lime leaves, lemongrass, galangal, fish
sauce, and lime juice. Stir thoroughly, bring to a boil, and add the coconut
milk, and then the chile peppers. Bring back to the boil, lower the heat to a
simmer and cook for about 5 minutes to allow the flavors to develop. Bring back
just to the boil, stir in the chicken slices, and immediately turn off the
heat. Portion into thick bowls, garnish each with cilantro leaves, and serve
with jasmine rice on the side.
NOTE: This soup is not intended to be
eaten over the rice, or for the rice to be mixed into the soup (except at the
very end, to absorb every drop of the broth), but to eat the soup separately,
with bites of rice interspersed. The soup can be made with seafood of any kind,
especially shellfish, instead of the chicken (pork or beef can be substituted as
well). It can also be made with tofu, preferably cubes of crispy fried tofu,
which can be purchased pre-cooked at Asian markets. Another substitute for the
chicken is sliced cooked artichoke hearts, which serve as a substitute for banana
blossoms.
Mick Vann ©
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3 Researches REVEAL Why Coconut Oil Kills Waist Fat.
ReplyDeleteThe meaning of this is that you actually burn fat by eating coconut fat (also coconut milk, coconut cream and coconut oil).
These 3 studies from major medical magazines are sure to turn the traditional nutrition world upside down!